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heirloom techniques: tucks
We’re thrilled to have Ashley and Emily back from Frances Suzanne! If you’ve followed their earlier visits, you’ll recall their chats about customizing the Croquet Dress and showcasing their favorite patterns like the Puppet Show and Music Class. This time, they’re diving into an heirloom technique they applied to the Ice Cream Dress. Welcome aboard, ladies!
Hello everyone! We’re absolutely delighted to join you once more and share our passion for “Heirloom Sewing Techniques,†blending these timeless methods with modern, trendy designs.

Today, our spotlight is on **tucks**! Such a simple yet elegant technique that only demands a little patience and time—no advanced sewing skills required. Plus, it’s a budget-friendly way to give garments that cherished, heirloom look.

A tuck is essentially a folded piece of fabric sewn wrong sides together. They come in various forms—basic, narrow pin tucks, wide tucks, spaced tucks, blind tucks, and graduated tucks. Before working on the actual fabric, it's wise to practice on scraps to perfect the spacing and width.

Being indecisive types, we chose two Oliver + S patterns and experimented with different tuck styles within each. One variation is here, while the other is showcased over at Frances Suzanne.
We picked the Ice Cream Dress, a blank canvas perfect for creative expression and ideal for displaying heirloom techniques. Its springtime vibe reminded us of warmer days ahead!

To start, we used the round-neck yoke pattern, omitting the notched version, and designed a cross-hatched tuck pattern inspired by Lyn Weeks' book, *Tantalizing Tucks*.
The cross-hatched tucks created a lattice effect across the bodice, almost resembling a waffle cone if you let your imagination run wild. It’s perfect for adding some delicate embroidery touches, don’t you think?

After some trial and error, we decided to add 1/8-inch spaced tucks to the yoke and pocket pieces. Each tuck was given 1/4 inch (1/8 inch on each side), with 7/8 inch between them. To avoid complex calculations, we pre-tucked a large piece of double gauze fabric before cutting the pattern pieces.
We alternated the spacing by sewing two tucks, then skipping one to create wider spaces in certain areas.

Once the vertical tucks were complete, we moved on to the horizontal ones, following the same pattern of sewing two tucks and skipping one.

With a large cross-hatched fabric swatch ready, we aligned the yoke pattern at the desired angle, traced its outline, and stitched slightly inside the traced line to keep the tucks in place. Cutting the pattern piece was straightforward from there.

The small squares formed by the cross-hatching became the base for clusters of French knots and lazy daisy leaves in two varying shades of purple. These subtle embellishments highlighted the tucks beautifully.

The pocket tucks were easier to manage, featuring two 1/8-inch tucks centered vertically and ironed towards the pocket’s center.

For extra flair, we embroidered more details on the pockets, adding three shades of purple French knots and a vertical chain stitch down the center.

After finishing the tucks and embroidery, we traced the pattern pieces onto the prepared fabric to ensure accurate placement of the tucks. To secure the tucks, we stitched just inside the traced lines before cutting out the pieces.

Back to the instructions, we attached the yoke by hand-stitching the lining and main fabric together instead of machine-sewing.


Ironically, the night before showing our niece her new dress, she drew a Fairy Tale Dress in her Oliver + S coloring book—a pink dress with purple flowers. Talk about serendipity!

It’s been a joy sharing this easy and affordable heirloom technique with you today. If you'd like to delve deeper into heirloom sewing, join the Oliver + S Discussion Group! It’s a fantastic community that inspires and supports one another.
Oh, and if you're craving more tucks, check out another Oliver + S creation featuring tucks over at Frances Suzanne!

And that’s a wrap! Thanks for tuning in, and happy sewing!